Hakone 2-Day Escape: Nature, Mt. Fuji & Private Onsen

Hakone is a legendary travel destination that has everything from Mt. Fuji views, lake, and waterfalls to museums. There are also many activities to do, whether it’s cruising Lake Ashi on a pirate ship or taking the ropeway to eat black eggs at Owakudani.

In just over an hour from Tokyo, we can come to see the beautiful colors of the changing leaves in Hakone. It’s even more convenient when using the Digital Hakone Freepass, a single digital ticket for traveling all around Hakone. No need to queue and no need to carry a paper ticket; just scan in and out of stations easily. It’s super convenient for a chill day of sightseeing.

I will introduce the highlights of Hakone in a 2-day, 1-night autumn leaves edition and guarantee that each location will definitely be an “Unseen” experience for you.

Of course, this time we are using the 2-day Digital Hakone Freepass priced at ¥7,100, which allows unlimited rides on 8 types of transportation in Hakone and also includes a round-trip train ticket from Shinjuku Station. For those who want to upgrade their journey to the Romancecar limited express train, just add an extra ¥1,150 to enjoy comfortable cushioned seats and a direct ride without transfers. It is a very convenient and time-saving way to travel.

The Digital Hakone Freepass covers round-trip travel on the Odakyu Line and 8 types of transportation in Hakone with a single pass:

✅One round-trip on the Odakyu Line from your departure station to Odawara Station.
✅Unlimited rides in Hakone area on
1. The Hakone Tozan Railway
2. The Hakone Tozan Cable Car
3. The Hakone Ropeway
4. The Hakone Sightseeing Cruise (Pirate Ship) across Lake Ashi
5. The Hakone Tozan Bus within designated areas
6. The Odakyu Highway Bus within designated areas
7. The Tokai Bus between Motohakone-ko – Mishima Skywalk – Mishima Station
8. The KANKO SHISETSU-MEGURI Bus within designated areas

We started the first day by departing from Shinjuku Station on the Romancecar limited express train and arrived at Hakone-Yumoto Station. Since we wanted to travel in a relaxed way today before checking into the hotel in the evening, we used the luggage delivery service to the accommodation, which has a service counter located inside the station.

Hakone Luggage Transport Service is a luggage transport service from Hakone-Yumoto Station to accommodations within the Hakone area. This allows us to travel hands-free on our first day in Hakone without having to drag our suitcases along. You can drop off your luggage as a walk-in or book online in advance and pay by credit card. This service also includes transporting luggage from your accommodation back to Hakone-Yumoto Station.

For the departure trip, luggage can be dropped off at the station from 8:30–12:00 and will be delivered to your accommodation starting from 15:00 onwards.

For the return trip, luggage can be dropped off at the hotel front desk until 10:00 and can be picked up at the station from 13:30–18:30.

Please note that advance bookings are not accepted for the return service.

Fees (per piece, one way)
・1,500 yen for bags with a total size (W+L+H) of 140 cm and weight not exceeding 15 kg.
・2,500 yen for large bags with a total size (W+L+H) of 200 cm and weight not exceeding 30 kg.

Check luggage delivery details and book online in advance here.

After dropping off our luggage, we can explore Hakone hands-free. Our plan for today is to visit Tamadare Falls, which is located within a hotel garden. Tourists and the general public can view the waterfall for free during the garden’s opening hours. It is about a 17-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station.

The highlight of this waterfall is the sacred water from the mountains of Hakone. It is said that the source of the water is incredibly pure and is believed to grant longevity. People often visit to pray for good health. There is a wooden walkway in the middle, allowing you to get up close to the waterfall for photos. In the same area, there is a hotel pond with ducks, which makes for very cute photos.

📍 Google Maps

Next, we walked to our lunch spot, Hakone Akatsukian Hakoneten, which is about a 6-minute walk from the waterfall. This is an old soba restaurant that inherits its traditions from a legendary Japanese soba master. They are meticulous in every step because their concept is “serving the best soba.” Quality buckwheat seeds are selected from across the country and ground with a stone mortar every morning to produce fresh soba noodles. These are then kneaded with natural spring water from Hakone, resulting in chewy noodles with a texture unlike any other shop. I highly recommend not missing out on a meal here.

In addition to the famous soba, the restaurant building is an old Japanese house built during the Meiji period. It has been relocated and restored, eventually being registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 2005. At this restaurant, you can savor delicious soba while surrounded by history.

For this meal, we had the soba set served with tempura. The set includes a side dish called “Yaki Miso”, buckwheat seeds roasted and mixed with green onions, shiso leaves, walnuts, and white miso. It has a fragrant aroma and a unique texture that I’ve never experienced in this kind of dish anywhere else before.

📍 Google Maps

After finishing lunch, we took a stroll back to Hakone-Yumoto Station and caught the Hakone Tozan Railway to Tonosawa Station to visit Fukazawa Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine. This shrine is renowned as a money-washing shrine, where Benzaiten, the goddess of financial fortune, is enshrined.

This is a compact shrine, but its highlight is that we can take money, both banknotes and coins, to wash in the sacred water. It is believed that this will enhance fortune and increase wealth, which is considered a fun activity in addition to enjoying the nature in Hakone.

The method for washing money is to place coins, banknotes, or both into the strainers provided by the shrine. Then, wash them in the pond three times. Afterward, pat the money dry with a towel and keep it in your wallet, as it is believed to bring good fortune. Alternatively, some people choose to spend the washed money; it depends on each individual’s belief.

📍 Google Maps

We visited a waterfall for longevity in the morning, so for the afternoon, we’re heading to Chisuji Falls to see the autumn colors. This waterfall is unique because it spans horizontally across about 20 meters. The water flows down in thousands of delicate, thread-like streams resembling a water curtain, which is where its name comes from. The area surrounding the falls is filled with maple trees, making it one of the must-see viewpoints in Hakone during the autumn leaf season.

To get to the waterfall, simply take the train to Kowakidani Station and walk for about 20 minutes. This waterfall also serves as a junction for several hiking trails, making it perfect for hikers who want to trek to other viewpoints in Hakone.

📍 Google Maps

Then, we took the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora Station to reach our accommodation for the night: Hakone Yutowa. This modern-style hotel is located less than a 5-minute walk from Gora Station.

Hakone Yutowa is an all-inclusive hotel where everything is covered in the room rate. This includes lounge drinks, breakfast and dinner buffets, and even alcoholic beverages during dinner. Staying here truly allows you to relax both your body and mind without having to worry about any additional expenses.

The hotel’s amenities are a major charm that makes it a very inviting place to stay. There is a Library Lounge located on the 2nd floor of the East Wing, featuring a diverse collection of about 650 books. It includes a cute reading nook with circular seating. This a popular photo spot is perfect for sitting back to read or sipping a drink.

The complimentary drink bar offers 13 different types of beverages (with alcoholic options available from 19:00 to 22:00). Right next to it, there is also a manga zone with titles in both Japanese and English, complete with hammocks where guests can lie down and enjoy their favorite comics.

The atmosphere on the hotel’s outdoor terrace is equally romantic. At the Spa Lounge Nakaniwa (located on the 2nd floor of the West Wing), there is a foot bath onsen right in the center of the terrace. In the evening, a bonfire is lit to add a cozy and warm touch to the ambiance. Couples often come here to relax on the swings and take photos in this area.

When dinner time arrives, we head to the restaurant on the 3rd floor of the hotel. Dinner is served as a half-buffet, where each person can choose one main dish from a seasonal menu. During our stay, the main dish was grilled beef with miso, while a seafood option was available for those who don’t eat beef.

The buffet line itself offers a wide variety of dishes that appeal to both children and adults, including grilled items, tempura, soba, rice, soup, and pickles. You can enjoy your meal to the fullest with all-you-can-drink beverages, which also include alcoholic options. As for breakfast, it is a Japanese-Western fusion style with about 30 different menu items to choose from.

After a satisfying dinner, it’s time to relax at the hotel’s onsen. They offer both public communal baths and private onsens, so you can choose whichever fits your preference and comfort level.

The communal hot springs for men and women each have their own distinct character.

The women’s side utilizes light to create a unique atmosphere; during the day, natural light filters through the window slits, casting beautiful shadows across the water’s surface. In contrast, the men’s side is designed with wood accents, providing a warm, natural feel complemented by the soothing scent of pine.

The hotel’s onsen is renowned for its mineral-rich waters that promote beautiful skin, leaving it feeling smooth and soft. It is also the perfect way to relieve the fatigue gathered from a full day of traveling.

The private onsens are perfect for those seeking privacy or for families traveling together. There are two rooms available: Yu (癒) and Wa (和). These private baths truly meet every need, as they are spacious and fully equipped with amenities.

Best of all, there is no need to book in advance; the hotel uses a simple queue system. You can check for availability by looking at the sign hanging on the front door. If someone is using the bath, the sign will indicate it is occupied. Each session is limited to 30 minutes, and once you’re finished, simply flip the sign back to “vacant” so the next guest can enjoy the facility.

As for our room tonight, we stayed in a Standard Twin, which is perfectly sized and simply decorated. It features warm wood tones and a large window that overlooks the beautiful autumn foliage. The bathroom is thoughtfully designed with a separate shower area and vanity. Overall, the hotel room is simple yet fully equipped, making our stay so comfortable that I almost didn’t want to wake up and check out!

Learn more about the Hakone Yutowa here.

📍 Google Maps

Our second day in Hakone started with a slow, relaxing morning. After checking out, our first stop was the Hakone Museum of Art to soak in the stunning autumn colors.

The Hakone Museum of Art is one of the most beautiful spots in Hakone for viewing moss gardens and autumn foliage. Located near the Koen-Kami cable car station, not far from Gora, it has been open since 1952. Its highlight is the exhibition of ancient Japanese earthenware and ceramics.

The building is surrounded by gardens, making the museum exceptionally stunning during the autumn leaf season. The vibrant orange and red maple trees contrast beautifully with the deep green moss, creating an iconic Hakone image that tourists love to share on social media.

📍 Google Maps

After leaving the museum, we took the cable car from Koen-Kami Station to Sounzan Station to visit cu-mo Hakone, a cafe located on the second floor of the station. The cafe features a sweets shop and a souvenir store, but the true highlight is the outdoor foot bath on the terrace.

I highly recommend this for anyone transferring from the cable car to the ropeway. You can pick up a drink or some cute snacks to enjoy while soaking your feet before continuing your journey. Best of all, the foot bath is free of charge!

📍 Google Maps

Once we were well-rested, we took the ropeway up to Owakudani Station.

Today, we’re having lunch here! While everyone knows this place is famous for its black eggs, many might not realize that the Owakudani curry is also incredibly renowned. It’s considered a signature dish that you simply must try! It’s just as much of a “must-have” as the black eggs themselves.

The Owakudani Curry is so delicious that it even won the Grand Prix at the 73rd Japan Food Selection in 2024. You could say it’s a true curry champion. What makes it so addictive is the deep black curry sauce, designed to evoke the imagery of volcanic lava and mountain steam.

The spices are remarkably fragrant, and despite being on the menu for a long time, it remains an unchanging bestseller. If you’re already taking the ropeway up for the black eggs, I highly recommend pairing them with this curry; it’s a perfect combination.

The restaurant, Owakudani Eki Shokudo, is conveniently located on the 2nd floor of Owakudani Station.

📍 Google Maps

After satisfying our appetite with the curry and black eggs, we took the ropeway down to Togendai Station to go on a Hakone Sightseeing Cruise (Pirate Ship).

Cruising Lake Ashi on a pirate ship is considered one of the absolute highlights you can’t miss when visiting Hakone. On a clear day, you can enjoy stunning views of Mt. Fuji.

Today, we chose to sit in the First Class section, which offers the best vantage point on the vessel. It provides a panoramic view of both the lake and Mt. Fuji without the crowds, offering a very peaceful and private atmosphere.

First Class seating requires an additional fee of 800 yen per trip, but you can use your Digital Hakone Freepass to get a 100-yen discount when purchasing the upgrade. The great thing about having the Freepass is that it allows for unlimited rides, so it essentially feels like you’re cruising for free!

The cruise route connects major Hakone piers including Motohakone, Hakonemachi, and Togendai. Today, we decided to disembark at Motohakone to explore and visit a cafe.

Note: There are several types of boats operating on the lake, but the pirate ships (Hakone Sightseeing Cruise) by Odakyu are the only ones where you can use your Freepass.

Salon de thé Rosage is a cafe located on the grounds of Odakyu Hotel de Yama right by Lake Ashi.

Here, you can enjoy delicious cakes and sip tea while watching the pirate ships sail past. On the day we visited, the weather was so beautiful that the scenery looked like a painting coming to life.

The highlight of this cafe is definitely the desserts, which are crafted by the hotel’s expert pastry chefs. Their signature recommendation is the apple pie, served alongside premium-grade tea.

The apple pie is the most popular dessert here. When it’s served, a staff member will wheel a service cart right to your table and artfully decorate your plate using five different colors of fruit sauce. To top it off, a scoop of ice cream is placed perfectly on the warm pie.

The pie itself features thinly sliced apples layered beautifully to resemble a blooming rose. If you visit this cafe, I highly recommend ordering this dish. It truly feels like you’re eating a masterpiece!

📍 Google Maps

After leaving the cafe, a 20-minute walk back toward Motohakone Port brings you to a 400-year-old cedar tree tunnel. This is the Old Tokaido Road Ancient Cedar Avenue, a historic section of the Tokaido Road that connected Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo period.

In the past, there were over 1,000 cedar trees lining both sides of the path, but today about 400 remain. These trees were originally planted during the Edo era to provide travelers with shelter from the sun, rain, and cold winds.

For those who want to experience the traditional side of Japan in Hakone, this is a must-visit spot. The path also connects directly to Hakone Shrine, making it a perfect route for hiking enthusiasts who will surely love the atmosphere here.

📍 Google Maps

Afterward, we traveled back to Hakone-Yumoto Station by taking the bus from the Motohakone stop to catch the Romancecar back to Tokyo. It was the perfect conclusion to our 2-day, 1-night trip in Hakone.

Hakone is the ideal destination for travelers looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Whether you visit for a day trip or stay overnight, this place truly has it all from nature and museums to stunning views of Mt. Fuji without having to travel too far.

Using the Digital Hakone Freepass makes the experience even more worthwhile, as you don’t have to worry about individual fares for each mode of transport. It’s perfect for both first-timers and seasoned Japan travelers alike.

I hope my travel story helps you plan your own perfect trip to experience the unique charm of Hakone 🙂