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A visit to Hakone will quickly reveal to you why it endures as one of Japan’s go-to travel destinations. A mountain resort area set inside a vast national park, surrounded by imposing mountains and dense forests, Hakone offers visitors the chance to enjoy its rich cultural history and stunning landscapes, and to take advantage of its numerous thermal baths.
Although Hakone’s main sightseeing spots are spread across the area, getting around is surprisingly easy thanks to the Hakone Loop, a scenic route that connects trains, buses, cable cars, ropeways, and even a sightseeing cruise.
This time, I took advantage of the 2-day Hakone Freepass, a discounted travel pass which allows for unlimited rides on eight modes of transport and discounts at around 70 facilities in the area. The pass makes it easy to explore Hakone without a car, whether you want to follow the classic sightseeing route or enjoy a slower journey through quieter areas.
Rather than rushing through the full Hakone Loop in one day, this itinerary takes a gentler approach, moving smoothly from Hakone-Yumoto to Miyanoshita and onward to Gora without backtracking. On this trip, I wanted to slow down and experience a different side of Hakone through history, cafes, craft, hot springs, and time at the hotel.
Getting from Shinjuku to Hakone by Romancecar
The easiest way to reach Hakone from Tokyo is by the pleasantly named Romancecar, which offers direct access from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto in as little as 80 minutes. If you are using the Hakone Freepass from Shinjuku, the basic round-trip fare is covered, but a separate limited express ticket is required to ride the Romancecar.
Both the Hakone Freepass and Limited Express Romancecar tickets can be purchased online through EMot Online Tickets, a browser-based ticket service accessible via the Odakyu global website.
As I settled into my seat on the Romancecar, Tokyo’s dense cityscape gradually gave way to greener views and distant mountains. The train offers a smooth, direct journey from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway to Hakone. After arriving at Hakone-Yumoto, I continued to my first stop, Miyanoshita, by Hakone Tozan Train. You can also reach Miyanoshita by bus, and both options are covered by the Hakone Freepass.
Get your digital ticket for the Limited Express Romancecar
Saien Breakfast
After arriving in Miyanoshita, I began the day with breakfast at Saien, a serene cafe set inside a beautifully renovated old house. The cafe is run by a Buddhist monk who serves at a nearby temple, and offers a quiet introduction to Hakone’s slower side.
Saien offers a changing daily course breakfast of Shojin Ryori, fully plant-based Buddhist temple cuisine, served in Ōryōki, the traditional tableware used by monks. Available only by reservation, it is a dining experience that invites you to slow down and enjoy each new course as it is presented to you. Soft tofu is complemented by miso soup and vegetables seasoned with kombu dashi, and a green tea refill is poured for me as I enjoy the delicate flavors of traditional Japanese sweets.
Such a leisurely breakfast is a treat and seems a fitting prelude for a trip inspired by slowing down and enjoying the little things.
